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Overall, designers seemed to spend a lot of time looking in back for fall 2020. Not SHAKIRA AKIRA SHOTARO KANEDA MOTORCYCLE SHIRT only were they revisiting materials they’d worked with before, but there was a lot of self-referential fashion. At Margiela Galliano referenced his own Fallen Angels collection of 1986; at Dior Maria Grazia Chiuri doubled down on the New Look silhouette introduced in 1947, and Pierpaolo Piccioli’s all-white collection for Valentino was in the tradition of the house founder’s breakthrough White show of 1968. Meanwhile, Virginia Viard capitalized on Chanel’s house iconography such as tweed and lions, while Daniel Roseberry’s Collection Imaginaire for Schiaparelli revisited the house founder’s shoe hat and other Surrealist tropes.
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